Yves Saint Laurent’s 1971 Spring/Summer collection, officially titled “Libération” (Liberation), remains a pivotal moment in fashion history, not for its intended message of freedom and empowerment, but for the firestorm of controversy it ignited. While the collection aimed to celebrate a sense of liberation for women, its daring designs, particularly the short hemlines and the use of exotic materials like green monkey fur, sparked outrage and cemented its place in fashion annals as the “Scandal” collection. This article will delve into the intricacies of this iconic yet controversial show, exploring its designs, the reactions it provoked, its lasting impact on fashion, and its place within the broader context of YSL's career and the evolving social landscape of the early 1970s.
YSL Scandal Collection 1971: A Bold Departure
The YSL “Libération” collection was a radical departure from the prevailing fashion trends of the time. The 1960s were winding down, and the rigid formality of previous decades was starting to crumble. However, Saint Laurent's vision went far beyond a simple shift in silhouette. He envisioned a woman who was confident, independent, and unafraid to challenge societal norms. This was reflected in the collection's key elements:
* Mini-skirts: While hemlines had been gradually rising throughout the late 1960s, Saint Laurent's mini-skirts were exceptionally short, shocking many who were accustomed to longer, more demure lengths. This was a direct challenge to traditional notions of femininity and propriety.
* Safari Suits: Inspired by colonial attire, the safari suits, in their practical yet stylish design, were arguably less controversial than the other pieces. However, their inclusion demonstrated Saint Laurent's willingness to draw inspiration from unexpected sources, reflecting a broader trend towards global influences in fashion.
* Green Monkey Fur: This was arguably the most controversial element of the collection. The use of monkey fur, especially in such a prominent way, sparked immediate outrage from animal rights activists and conservationists. The fur, often dyed a vibrant green, was used in coats and jackets, creating visually striking but ethically questionable pieces. This element significantly contributed to the collection's infamous reputation.
* Sheer Fabrics and Transparency: The use of sheer fabrics and transparent elements further pushed the boundaries of acceptable attire. These designs, while arguably less shocking than the monkey fur, still contributed to the overall sense of boldness and rebellion that characterized the collection.
* Masculine-Inspired Tailoring: The collection also featured elements of masculine tailoring, such as sharply cut jackets and trousers, further challenging traditional gender roles in fashion. This aspect, while not as overtly controversial as the mini-skirts or monkey fur, still contributed to the collection's overall revolutionary spirit.
YSL Scandal: A Media Frenzy and Public Outcry
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